Tanzanian wildlife

July 13, 2007


My favorite African animal
Just now, at midnight, I walked down my dark driveway to drop a bag into the garbage can. The tree shadows and my imagination made it seem a little creepy out there. It reminded me that while visiting the national parks of Tanzania, I wasn’t allowed to leave my room after dark without a staff escort because lions, elephants, and, most dangerous, Cape buffalo might be taking an evening stroll on any given night. Usually the young man who escorted me was armed with nothing more than a flashlight (“You shine it in the buffalo’s eyes to blind it and then run to your room,” one told me), though one actually carried an automatic weapon slung over his shoulder. I couldn’t decide which was scarier: lions at the hotel or a carelessly held M-16.
Big-game animals were what we’d all come to Tanzania to see. As part of a 25-person Tauck safari, my dad and I made the 20-hour flight to the other side of the world, just south of the equator where it was winter and the dry season, to see animals I’d only known from children’s picture books and zoos. Although none appeared in the flashlight beam, we saw plenty of animals on our morning and evening game drives. The variety, size, and sheer numbers of animals astonished and delighted me. Here are a few photos.

Sated on buffalo (see the bloody ribcage back there?), this young male lion stared at us from only 18′ away. (The safari vehicles do not seem to bother or frighten the animals, even though cars lined the track to watch him dine and the passengers all stood with their heads poking out of the open roofs.) He was one of three male lions at the kill, which we didn’t witness. Their bellies, paws, and faces were stained with blood, and they’d already reduced the buffalo to a skull with horns, black hide, and shreds of meat hanging on bones that they cracked in their jaws. Their bellies were very tight. Our driver told us they wouldn’t need to eat again for a couple of days. The lion kill was the first thing we saw on reaching the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater, an absolute paradise and concentration of wild animals.

A zebra bearing evidence of a narrow escape from a lion

Lilac-breasted roller. Tanzania is a birder’s paradise. We’d never seen such a variety of beautifully colored birds.

This baboon was part of a troop in Lake Manyara National Park.

Baobab trees. As it was winter and the dry season, the trees were leafless, which only made them more majestic and otherworldly.

A curious giraffe

Cape buffalo with their wig-like horns

The zebra foals are cinnamon-colored.

This lioness was leaping playfully onto her “sister,” who had called her over with several cough-like roars. We’d all been watching the first lioness as she called when I heard a quiet sound on the gravel track behind us and turned around. This lioness was padding down the track and heading right for our car. She looked big. I momentarily lost my voice, started grabbing at people’s arms, and tried to say, “Lion!” Then she turned into the grass, walked toward the other one, and leaped.

Dik-dik, a small antelope about 2′ tall

Though it may look friendly, these male elephants were sparring by pushing each other, wrapping their trunks around each other, and poking rumps with their tusks. Still, it doesn’t seem too rough since the one on the right is managing to chew a mouthful of branches.

Solitary baobab tree with a hole in the trunk
I know you came here for garden photos, but I couldn’t resist putting up a few travel shots. Come back later, if you’re interested, for photos of the people we met in Tanzania.

0 responses to “Tanzanian wildlife”

  1. Ki says:

    Truly amazing photos. I’m glad you had a long lens. The colors of the lilac breasted roller are wonderful rivaling some flowers and such an innocent face on the dik dik. I have always loved the look of the baobab. Looks like a tree planted with roots up. Saw one in Hawaii with leaves and it looks no less impressive. Look forward to seeing more photos.
    My dad kindly lent me his camera for the trip : a Canon 30D with a 70-300mm zoom lens. It made all the difference in terms of capturing animals’ expressions and movements. Now I want one of my own! —Pam

  2. irena says:

    looks like you had an unforgettable trip. the pictures are amazing. maybe in between garden projects you can do some photography for national geographic. Looking forward to seeing more.
    Irena
    It was definitely unforgettable. Thanks for the compliments on the photos. I’ll post a few more of my faves today and tomorrow. —Pam

  3. June Tarr says:

    More, more!!! I want to see all 2000!!!!
    No, you really don’t. 😉 Taking 2,000 photos might yield about 200 worth looking at. But thanks for the confidence. —Pam

  4. Carol says:

    Those are just incredible pictures. It must have been quite a trip to see all those animals in the wild like that. More, please. Yes, shows us the people and then show us the flowers. We know you took pictures of the flowers!
    Carol at May Dreams Gardens
    OK, Carol, I confess I took a few photos of flowers, but only a few. After all, it was winter, so very little was in bloom aside from irrigated tropicals at some of the hotels, and we were in safari vehicles all the time unless we were on the hotel grounds, so there weren’t chances to get down on flower level when we saw them. I’ll show you what I can though. 🙂 —Pam

  5. chuck b. says:

    Awesome! You’re ready for your own special on the Nat’l Geographic channel.
    Ha! —Pam

  6. Nicole says:

    What absolutely incredible photos! You’ve captured the people so beautifully, and that experience seeing those animals must have been truly memorable. A fantastic once in a lifetime experience.
    Thanks, Nicole. It really was an incredible experience. —Pam

  7. Layanee says:

    Pam: Those pictures are amazing! It is hard to pick a favorite…the balloon, the sunrise, the animals. Each are a work of art. The EM who is going to Tanzania in Nov. is the ‘Equipment Manager’ and spouse. He is very excited but I will enjoy your pictures and his movies. I would rather see ‘Hidcote’ and I am saving for such a trip!
    Well, Hidcote is on my list too. If you go, I’ll be looking for pictures! —Pam

  8. Thanks for sharing your wonderful pictures Pam!
    You’re welcome, Christopher! —Pam

  9. Kerri says:

    These are gorgeous! Like right out of National Geographic!
    I’m glad you enjoyed them, Kerri. Thanks for commenting! —Pam

  10. Dawn says:

    Wow! Your animal photos are so very clear and close-up. That leaping lion is a one-of-a-kind moment. Well caught!
    I feel badly for the zebra. Will she likely survive that wound? I cannot image how much that hurt. Poor zebra. She looks like she might be pregnant as well.
    The baobab trees are so uniquely shaped. Beautiful! Looking at them you’d definitely know you weren’t in Texas anymore.
    🙂
    We asked our guide about that wound. He said the zebra would probably be weakened such that she’d be caught in a day or two. 🙁 Then again, the lions have to eat too.
    The baobabs were amazing! I never got tired of looking at them. —Pam

  11. Ashley says:

    Aww, That poor zebra!

  12. kina says:

    I loved the picture of the elephants why were they sparring? And if it was to show off in front of a female why not just fight?
    kina
    Our guides explained that the young males practice sparring so they’ll be ready for the real deal when it’s time to see “who’s the man.” —Pam

  13. Jean says:

    Pam – followed your link from your Agave transplanting experience (ugh!). I’m so glad you shared your trip photos. I went on a photo safari to Botswana 4 years ago and it was the richest experience in my life. What I wouldn’t give to go on another one! Maybe I’ll start a new blog for those who want to share safari experiences. 🙂
    Jean
    If you do, send me the URL. I’d like to see your photos. The safari I went on was truly wonderful, but I do wish it had put more emphasis on photography. We didn’t get out until well after sunrise each morning, so we missed the best light and the more active moments for the animals. I’d love to go back and do another one. —Pam