Drive-By Gardens: A new lawn-gone garden in my neighborhood

Bravo to my neighbors, who’ve ripped out their front lawn and replaced it with native groundcovers woolly stemodia (Stemodia lanata) and sedge (probably Carex texensis), accented with xeric specimen plants like Agave parryi var. truncata, gopher plant (Euphorbia rigida), Wheeler sotol (Dasylirion wheeleri), squid agave (Agave bracteosa), and ‘Color Guard’ yucca.

For comparison, a “before” image from Google Maps. It looked so much smaller with just lawn! Now there’s an abundance of interesting plants to catch your eye, and the new flagstone walk invites you to meander, not rush, to the front door.

Their front garden faces east, and they went with xeric (dry-loving) plants on the sunny side of the yard, mulching these with decomposed granite. The woolly stemodia should fill in quickly, covering the DG with a silvery green carpet that sparkles with lavender flowers in late summer. The accent plants should do well too, although if we have a cold, wet winter the variegated ‘Arizona Star’ agave at the back may suffer.

On the shady side, under a large oak (red oak, I think), sedges will eventually fill in to make a low, grassy groundcover. Shredded wood mulch suppresses weeds, and it looks more natural under trees than gravel. This should look very pretty in a few years. They only thing I would have done differently, being impatient, is to plant the sedges more thickly. A dense initial planting also gives opportunistic weeds less of a chance to sneak in. Along the edge of the yard, bamboo muhly (Muhlenbergia dumosa) makes a feathery, chartreuse screen.

Along the foundation, under a limbed-up crepe myrtle and Texas mountain laurel, variegated flax lily (Dianella tasmanica ‘Variegata’), bicolor iris (Dietes bicolor), and a few flowering perennials are planted on either side of a paver path leading from the driveway to the front door. The handsome paver driveway and path are a nice upgrade from concrete, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they had French drains installed to move runoff away from the garage.

Unlike my house, theirs has a sidewalk, and they planted the hell strip too. I see blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum), red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora), and Mexican feathergrass (Nassella tenuissima), good choices all. Again, I would have planted more densely, and they’ll need to be vigilant about weeding this section because there’s no woolly stemodia to fill in and outcompete opportunistic weeds. In my experience, Bermudagrass, nutgrass, and mats of spurge love to colonize open stretches of DG. But they can be defeated with constant vigilance.

Also, I would have added 10-foot sections of paver or flagstone paving on each side of the driveway, for visitors who park at the curb. Car landings allow visitors to get in and out of their cars without trampling your plants or getting poked in the shins.

Our neighborhood’s regular visitors have already stopped by to check out the new garden, with hoof prints left as evidence. Deer are a constant presence in my northwest Austin neighborhood, and everything one plants must be highly deer resistant. Even so, they’ll sample many of those when they’re newly planted, sometimes pulling them out of the ground in the process, and at this of year agaves, yuccas, and young trees can be damaged by bucks rubbing their antlers against them.

It takes determination to garden under such circumstances, but I love to see my neighbors going for it and making their yards more beautiful and inviting to birds, bees, butterflies, and other creatures (but hopefully not the deer, not if they want to have a garden). I can’t wait to see how this garden evolves, and I know it will bring them — and their neighbors — a lot of pleasure every day.

All material © 2006-2015 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.

Dry and Mighty: How to design a dry garden

If gravel accented with a few lonely cacti and a cow skull is all that comes to mind when you think of a dry garden, it’s time to update this dusty Old West vision. Drought across the western U.S. and widespread interest in gardening more sustainably, with less water, are inspiring a renewed appreciation of dry gardens. These are, quite simply, gardens that thrive on rainfall alone or an occasional deep watering but can do without regular irrigation. Dry gardens can be surprisingly lush, layered with plants adapted to sparse rainfall, tolerant of periods of drought, and stoic in harsh conditions that make thirstier plants shrivel their toes and droop in protest.

“Water is a finite resource. It’s a commonsense thing to do,” says Julie Marcus, senior horticulturist at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. “Also, people’s lives are busy. They don’t want to have to spend a lot of time on their yard, but they want it to look good. Plant selection is important in those cases.” Native plants, uniquely adapted to local climate, are a logical choice for dry gardens, so long as you choose those that naturally grow in dry soil, rather than along moist stream banks. (Save those for rain gardens.)

But how do you make a garden with the endurance of a camel look attractive year-round? Many dry gardens are showiest in spring, when abundant rain and pleasantly warm days entice even the most rugged plants into colorful bloom. Come summer, however, when the heat kicks in, rain clouds vanish, and spring-flowering annuals and perennials go dormant, you’ll still want your dry garden to look good.


Evergreen plants are key players in a dry garden, providing greenery and structure that comes to the forefront when spring flowers fade. Shrubs like agarita (Mahonia trifoliolata), with its handsome, holly-like leaves, or grassy mounds of red yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora) enliven the quieter seasons. And layering in lushness from sky to soil conquers the underplanted dry garden stereotype.

Desert willow

Start with the upper layer. The shade of a tree, even an airy ornamental like desert willow (Chilopsis linearis), cools surrounding plants and soil, preserving precious moisture.

Arizona cypress, autumn sage, and Mexican feathergrass

Trees also make good windbreaks. A staggered row of Arizona cypress (Cupressus arizonica), for example, disrupts desiccating winds and shelters plants on the leeward side.

‘Tangerine Beauty’ crossvine

Let vines like ‘Tangerine Beauty’ crossvine (Bignonia capreolata) clamber atop an arbor to shade a patio.

Turk’s cap

Fill the garden’s mid-level with shrubs and masses of summer- and fall-blooming perennials like Texas lantana (Lantana urticoides) and Turk’s cap (Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii) to brighten the view long after the riot of spring.

Texas sedge

Sprinkle in ornamental grasses like pine muhly (Muhlenbergia dubia) for touchable texture and a long season of interest. Below this, diminutive plants like four-nerve daisy (Tetraneuris scaposa) and Texas sedge (Carex texensis) can be used en masse to carpet the garden floor — or at least make a few nice throw rugs.

Cenizo, or Texas ranger

One of the biggest challenges in designing a dry garden is battling the dreaded little-leaf syndrome. Supremely drought-tolerant plants like cenizo (Leucophyllum frutescens) tend to have tiny leaves with gray-green or silver-blue coloring, a survival mechanism that reduces water loss and reflects sunlight. An entire garden of such plants blurs into an undifferentiated scrim of fine texture.

For the cure, seek out drought-tolerant plants with bold foliage for contrast. The oval, flat pads of spineless prickly pear (Opuntia ellisiana) and sword-shaped leaves of Harvard agave (Agave havardiana) stand out amid fine-textured plants, each complementing the other. For an even bigger pop, choose a bold-leaf plant with colorful foliage, like yellow-striped Yucca filamentosa ‘Color Guard’.

American agave, bamboo muhly, and woolly stemodia

A dry garden benefits, perhaps more than any other style, from creatively evoking the idea of water with plants and rocks. A silvery pool of woolly stemodia (Stemodia lanata) visually cools the garden, while an undulating river of ornamental grasses — try ‘Blonde Ambition’ blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis) — creates a sense of watery movement.

On slopes, a cascade of half-buried boulders and flat ledgestones becomes a dry waterfall; on flatter ground, a meandering shallow trench filled with varying sizes of river rock makes a convincing streambed. Evoking water without using any is a dry-garden sleight of hand that goes all the way back to the Japanese Zen garden tradition, and it’s just as magical in today’s dry gardens.

Let your creativity flow instead of the hose. A dry garden filled with carefully chosen, hard-working plants can be as beautiful as a more-pampered garden. And in making one you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you’re saving water for a rainy day.

How to Create Your Xeric Garden

“Your garden should not die when the power or water is shut off,” says Phoenix landscape architect Steve Martino. Using dry-adapted native plants is key to creating a garden that isn’t tethered to the hose, but you can’t just plant them and walk away. Even tough natives need some TLC when they’re getting established. To ensure their success, follow these guidelines when making your dry garden.

Being “native” does not necessarily make a plant suitable for a dry garden; seek out natives from your region that require good drainage or grow naturally on dry, rocky slopes and that prefer the same sun or shade conditions as your garden offers. If your yard is consistently moist, forget about making a dry garden except in containers. Plant needs must match the site. Minor soil amendments can be useful, however. If your soil contains a lot of clay, add compost and decomposed granite to loosen soil and give your plants better drainage.

Dry-loving plants can be susceptible to rot during periods of heavy rain if they lack sharp drainage such as they’d enjoy on a slope or in rocky soil. To keep their crowns dry, try planting on berms built up with gravelly soil. Shape a berm so that it curves in a gentle arc and merge it with the larger garden in order to avoid the “burial mound” look of a berm plopped in the middle of a lawn. In drier climates, where rot is seldom a concern but thirst is, harness rainwater by planting in broad, shallow basins. Such basins collect rainwater, preventing it from simply running off the surface and allowing it to soak deeply into the soil, nourishing plants’ roots.

Plant shrubs and trees in autumn rather than in spring. They can grow their roots all fall and winter (in mild climates) without the stress of summer heat and drought. By the time warmer weather does roll around, they’ll be primed to put on new top growth.

Many native perennials can be planted in fall too. Some, however, like blackfoot daisy (Melampodium leucanthum), dislike winter moisture and may rot if they aren’t well-established; plant these in spring. Of course, climate varies considerably across the country, so follow appropriate planting instructions for your region and your particular plants.

A common mistake in dry gardening is thinking you can plant it and forget it. But even the most xeric — i.e., dry-loving — plant needs regular water to get established. Horticulturist Julie Marcus agrees. “I’ve heard people say [after losing a plant], ‘I thought that was supposed to be one of those zero plants.’ But it has to be established before it can be xeric.” She advises watering trees and shrubs regularly for the first two years after planting; perennials for one year. Over time, lessen the frequency of irrigation, giving an occasional deep soaking only during unusually hot, dry periods. In dry-summer, wet-winter Mediterranean climates like the West Coast, established natives prefer to receive moisture during winter, not summer.

Bare soil dries out quickly, stressing plants. Give your dry garden a leg up by mulching to preserve soil moisture. An inch of mineral mulch or one to two inches of wood mulch keeps soil cooler and roots moist. Mineral mulches like decomposed granite and pea gravel look best in sunny gardens that don’t get a lot of leaf litter, and they helpfully drain moisture away from the rot-prone crowns of certain plants. However, gravel is a perfect nursery for weed seeds, so regular weeding is essential. For dry shade gardens, shredded hardwood or pecan shell mulch looks natural and suppresses weeds too.

A version of this article first appeared in the Summer 2015 issue of Wildflower magazine under the title “Dry & Mighty.”

All material © 2006-2015 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.

Gardening books I’m reading right now

I’m going to need a bigger bedside table.

Here’s what I’m reading right now, and just look at this awesome selection of design-oriented gardening books (and one magazine). I expect to review some of these in coming months, after the garden-tour craziness is behind me. But in case you’re starting to make your holiday wish list, I thought I’d go ahead and share these with you. All but two I bought for myself; Hummelo was sent for review, and my DH gave me Planting in a Post-Wild World for my birthday. I mention this just so you know I’ve put my money where my mouth is on these publications.

Garden Design magazine. One issue of this quarterly, ad-free, “bookazine” will keep you in great garden reading for weeks. The current issue includes in-depth articles about designing for drought, Piet Oudolf’s immersive planting style, plant explorer Dan Hinkley’s garden, and more. Variety, depth, and gorgeous eye candy. What more do you need from a gardening magazine?

Hummelo: A Journey Through a Plantsman’s Life by Piet Oudolf and Noel Kingsbury. This is the story of Piet Oudolf’s evolution from beginning designer to renowned plantsman and founder of the New Perennials movement. I’ve gotten a bit bogged down in the extensive detail about Oudolf’s early years establishing his nursery and design business, but even so, I’m intrigued by the impact of community in shaping the designer he is today. This is a book I’ll come back to soon.

Sunset Western Garden Book of Easy-Care Plantings: The Ultimate Guide to Low-Water Beds, Borders, and Containers. Sunset’s focus on the West excludes central Texas, but it still has relevance to the gardening we do here. Drought, heat, sustainable gardening, and an emphasis on outdoor living are covered, and plenty of gorgeous garden photos illustrate various elements of design. I eagerly read through this one already and will go back and do a slower perusal this fall.

The Art of Gardening: Design Inspiration and Innovative Planting Techniques from Chanticleer by R. William Thomas. Chanticleer stole my heart when I visited several years ago, and so I eagerly snapped up this book, written by head gardener Bill Thomas and photographed by the talented Rob Cardillo, when it came out. I’m learning so much about how Chanticleer’s creative gardens are imagined, planted, and maintained. I’m engrossed and carrying this book with me everywhere right now.

Outstanding American Gardens: A Celebration: 25 Years of the Garden Conservancy. Showcasing “eight gardens the conservancy has helped preserve and 43 of the more than 3,000 private gardens across the country that have been opened to the public through its Open Days Program,” including the Austin garden of James David, this book looks like an eye candy extravaganza with photos by Marion Brenner. I look forward to reading it and hope there’ll be plenty of commentary about the gardens as well.

Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West. This book is getting a lot of buzz in the design community, and it’s next on my reading list, after I finish the Chanticleer book. I’ve followed co-author and landscape architect Thomas Rainer’s insightful blog, Grounded Design, for years and am sure his book will be as intelligently written.

Girl Waits with Gun by Amy Stewart. Although this isn’t a gardening title, I include it because it’s written by Amy Stewart, better known as the author of Wicked Plants and The Drunken Botanist, and because this fun story recently kept me entertained on a long plane ride home from L.A. Unlikely heroine Constance Kopp is a no-nonsense, battle-ready recluse who gets sucked into a cat-and-mouse drama with a nasty gangster. Set in 1914 and based on a true story, Girl is Amy’s first venture into historical fiction. Her talent for story-telling turns a dusty historical news clipping into a lively detective novel.

Are you reading any of these? If not, add them to your list! And why not tell me what gardening titles you’re reading?


Austin-area gardening friends, come to the Inside Austin Gardens Tour this Saturday! My garden will be on tour, along with 6 others. Tour tickets may be purchased at each garden for $5 each or $20 for all. I’ll also have autographed copies of my book Lawn Gone! for sale ($20), if you’re looking for fall reading or an early holiday gift.

Inside Austin Gardens Tour
Saturday, October 17, 2015
9:00 am to 4:00 pm

All material © 2006-2015 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.