Evening photo shoot at The Huntington Gardens: GWA Pasadena

The Huntington gardens near Los Angeles have, for years, been on my wish list of botanical gardens to visit. So I was thrilled to see an afternoon visit and after-hours photoshoot offered on the itinerary of the Garden Writers Association symposium on September 20.

Unfortunately, it was surface-of-the-sun hot that day, 103 F (39.4 C). By my mid-afternoon arrival, I realized, to my dismay, that I was completely uninterested in touring the much-anticipated Huntington under the glare of an unforgiving Death Star. Chagrined, I hid out in the gift shop for an hour. Lest you think this a travesty, I assure you that the Huntington’s is the most incredible garden gift shop I’ve ever been in. How I wish I’d taken photos to show you. But I simply browsed in A/C-contented bliss.

As the sun dipped toward the horizon, however, I realized that I needed to suck it up and get out there. I mean, this was the Huntington! And so as the early-bird GWAers were straggling back, sweat-stained and flushed, to the gift shop and an after-hours bar (courtesy of the good folks at the Huntington), I finally ventured forth, prepared to melt for the beauty of the gardens.

And beautiful they are. As described by GWA, the Huntington was “[o]riginally the private estate of railroad magnate Henry Huntington (1850-1927), with a grand Beaux Arts mansion as its centerpiece….[T]he research and cultural institution houses world-class collections, including Gainsborough’s famous portrait of The Blue Boy, a Gutenberg Bible, and a 15th-century illuminated manuscript of Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales. Surrounding the estate are 120 acres of breathtaking grounds that showcase more than 15,000 different kinds of plants in a dozen specialized gardens.”

I did not see any of the indoor masterpieces. The garden was my sole focus. As it closed to regular visitors at 4:30 pm, those of us with GWA badges were allowed to stay on until 7 pm, giving the photographers among us a chance to shoot the garden in the kinder light of late afternoon and early evening.

Palm and Desert Gardens

I headed straight for the famous Desert Garden, figuring the afternoon light would be good filtering through spiny plants, and passing through the dramatic Palm Garden along the way.

The sun was still intense when I reached the Desert Garden, but as I’d hoped, it was incandescing the cactus.

As with the Lotusland cactus garden, it was like visiting a strange planet. At 10 acres and with 2,000 species of succulents and cactus, the Desert Garden is worthy of hours of poking around (pun intended). But amid the rocky beds and asphalt paving, the heat was like standing next to an open oven, and I ended up spending only about 45 minutes here.

Still, I saw many beautiful plants, like these blue echeverias creeping among black lava rock.

And aeoniums so black they looked scorched by the heat.

Otherworldly tree aloe

And barrel cactus in brilliant flower

High in this floss silk tree’s branches, a flock of green parrots chattered amiably.

Nearby, golden barrel cactus clustered in extravagant masses.

I’d never seen so many barrels, not even at Desert Botanical Garden.

I didn’t even know they grew this way, clustered one upon another in great, spiny mounds.

They littered the path edges like beach balls after a pool party, and each wore a golden halo in the afternoon light.

Lily Ponds

Seeking shade, I happened next upon the Lily Ponds garden. I could hardly imagine a more different experience from the radiating heat and dynamic plant arrangements in the Desert Garden.

Here, the mood was serene, green, and cool, thanks to a tranquil pond and stands of rustling bamboo.

I rested there a while before heading into the sun again, crossing a large lawn with a temple-like folly. What a mood shift, from one garden to the next!

Subtropical and Australian Gardens

Glancing at the map I decided to see the Australian Garden next, and I passed the Subtropical Garden along a path facing directly into the ferocious setting sun. This made for great lighting effects on plants like white-flowering sea squill (Drimia maritima) growing under live oaks…

…and bottlebrush, as I neared the Australian Garden.

But by the time I got there, I was cooked, and the garden didn’t look particularly shady, so I just kept trudging toward a towering wall of bamboo that promised coolness and relief.

Japanese Garden

Ahh, a leafy green wall tall enough to block the sun! The narrow entry from this direction might be easy to miss, were it not for the foo dogs (stone lions) guarding the path.


I entered the Japanese Garden through a mysterious bamboo forest of swaying culms and rustling leaves.

Climbing steadily uphill, I came to a paved courtyard with a collection of bonsai displayed on wooden stands.

Montezuma cypress in miniature

And olive

Next I strolled through a meditative Zen courtyard, with raked white gravel, boulder islands, and cloud-pruned trees.

A grand stair, zigzagging along one side, exits the Zen garden, and from here I entered the main garden.

Completed in 1912, the tranquil Japanese Garden includes a tall, arching moon bridge and reflecting pond. It was growing lovelier by the minute as the hateful sun sank behind the trees.

Intimate vignettes, like this tsukubai fountain…

…and carved figure near a tumbling stream, made for delightful discoveries along the winding hillside path.

Chinese Garden

As the terrain leveled out, I came upon the Chinese Garden, enclosed along one side by an undulating, tile-roofed white wall.

Known as Liu Fang Yuan, the Garden of Flowing Fragrance, the Chinese Garden opened to the public in 2008 — a century after the Japanese Garden.

Having twice visited the Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland, I knew to expect covered walkways leading to a series of paved courtyards with intricate details.

What I didn’t anticipate was being completely alone with the garden. It was all mine.

The light was soft as dusk came on.

A beautiful detail

Pebble mosaic courtyard — and banana trees by the moon gate?

The teahouse was closed for the day, but I admired the woodwork…

…and rested on its terrace, which overlooks a picturesque lake. The building that resembles a boat, at center, is part of a phase two addition to the garden, currently under construction.

Along the opposite side of the lake, a pavilion known as Terrace of the Jade Mirror shelters amid weeping willows.

Moon gates invite you through it.

Another pebble mosaic path and a carved stone bridge lead on. Note the limestone rocks arrayed along the edges — similar to the holey limestone we have here in central Texas.

Pavilion of the Three Friends comes into view here, with a fine view of the San Gabriel Mountains in the distance.

And the three friends? According to Chinese tradition, bamboo, pine, and plum are considered the three friends of winter for the pine and bamboo’s evergreen foliage and the plum’s early spring flowers. Together, explains the Huntington’s website, they symbolize fortitude, integrity, and resilience.

One last look. The Chinese Garden surprised me by turning out to be my favorite part of the Huntington gardens, in part, no doubt, due to the perfect golden hour during which I visited.

North Vista and Camellia Garden

The light was still sweet as I made my way through the Camellia Garden via the North Vista, a vast lawn anchored at one end by this baroque fountain adorned with carved fish and shells. The website explains, “The Italian fountain had been brought to England in the early 18th century and remained there until it was purchased by Henry Huntington in 1915. It was shipped from New York in 48 boxes that filled an entire railway car. Oddly enough, the fountain arrived without assembly instructions and with a few extra pieces. It eventually was installed five years after the completion of the main house (ca. 1916).”

The lawn is lined with 18th-century sculpted figures, camellias, and palms, and at the opposite end sits the former home of Henry and Arabella Huntington, which today houses part of their art collection.

I’m sure this garden sees most of its traffic in winter, when the camellias bloom, but it’s lovely in its summer greens too — although that lawn no doubt requires a lot of water to remain so green. The tall, skinny palms lend a distinctly California vibe to all the classicism.

California and Celebration Gardens

As the sun set and the staff prepared to close up, I straggled back, blissed out, toward the entrance, passing through the Mediterranean-style Celebration Garden, which is part of the water-wise California Garden. A shallow rill descends along a series of terraces formally planted with lavender, grasses, kangaroo paws, and other dry-adapted plants.

Red kangaroo paws looks especially pretty against cool-blue yuccas.

I would imitate this in a heartbeat if kangaroo paws tolerated Austin’s humid summer climate.

The grasses looked great too.

I love this combo, although I recognize only the yellow-flowering yarrow. Anyone know what the purple flowers are (update: looks like Scaevola aemula; thanks, Lara!), and is that a euphorbia at lower right?

Closer to the entrance, the garden loses its formality with casually inviting seating areas tucked amid billowing grasses.

The Huntington truly is an amazing collection of plants beautifully designed. I’m so glad I had a chance to explore it after-hours, and I hope you’ve enjoyed this very long recap.

Gift Shop

Part of my hideout time in the gift shop was spent autographing copies of my book Lawn Gone!, which I spotted prominently displayed as soon as I walked in the door.

How exciting! My thanks to the Huntington for carrying it and for treating us at GWA to a very special after-hours visit.

That wraps up my series of Los Angeles-area garden tours. Click through for a look back at the beautiful Volk Garden, which has a borrowed view of the Huntington. You’ll find links back to my other L.A. garden posts at the end of each post you follow.

All material © 2006-2015 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.

Dividing and conquering in the Volk Garden: GWA Pasadena

A long, shallow back yard sloping away from the house isn’t easy to turn into an inviting garden (I should know), but terracing and space-dividing hedges did the trick in this San Marino, California, garden. Owned by Robert and Caroline Volk and designed by Mark Bartos, this was the third and final private garden on the Garden Writers Association Pasadena tour last month.

Backing up to The Huntington (whose gardens we visited the day before; I’ll post pics soon), the garden benefits from a borrowed screen of trees along its perimeter. A gravel parking court out front and sloping lawn lead you around back to the main garden. Entering through a gate in a tall hedge, you look down a 200-foot axis that runs the length of the garden. Hedges and walls break up the expanse into multiple rooms, creating intimate spaces and preventing you from seeing everything at once.

The first room is a gravel courtyard anchored by a round vessel fountain. Flagstone and large river stones encircle its base, hiding the basin beneath. Multiple golden barrel cactus planted in clay pipes (chimney flues?) echo the fountain’s spherical shape.

Dry-loving plants in a Mediterranean style are planted here, including a gigantic American agave Agave franzosinii, rosemary, the golden barrels, and aloes.

My friend Noelle Johnson of AZ Plant Lady is dwarfed by the agave. I’m sure it reminded her of home.

The cross-axis view, with an aloe in bloom. I love the steel sculpture by artist Michael Amescua, which is mounted on a white wall to show it off.

It’s a focal point when viewing the garden from an elevated terrace along the back of the house.

No axis view is neglected in this garden. At the fountain, if you look back the way you came in, you see a yellow butterfly chair in the shrub border alongside the lawn, perfectly aligned with the view corridor.

A nice touch

The next room along the axis contains a swimming pool and a brick terrace, unfortunately cracked along one side.

Looking back toward the fountain courtyard you get a sense of how the tall hedges enclose various rooms and break up the long, narrow space.

A lily pond and fountain liven up in the brick terrace with greenery and a soothing drip-drip.

There was another hedged room after the pool terrace, but I neglected to get pictures of it. Instead let’s go up the steps from the lowest level of the garden to the terrace along the back of the house. A green-painted steel gate by metal artist Michael Amescua leads the way.

One of his birds perches atop the wall.

Yet another fountain — a real showstopper — is the focal point of the upper terrace. A lion’s-head pedestal spills water into a small, elegant pond filled with lilies and iris. A classical-style urn on top is planted with a virtual waterfall of trailing succulents like burro’s tail sedum (Sedum morganianum) and string of fishhooks (Senecio radicans).


I was also smitten by the wavy bark on this tree. I asked someone what it was, but now I’ve forgotten.

So textural

The home itself was described to us as a 1935 Georgian colonial. The designer told us that the garden was originally designed in the old California style, without much thought to water use, and they’ve been making changes to be more water thrifty. Aren’t we all!

Up next: The Huntington Gardens, a plant-collector’s garden on a grand scale. For a look back at the formal yet xeric-planted Barrett Garden, click here.

All material © 2006-2015 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.

Formal axes, xeric plants in the Barrett Garden: GWA Pasadena

The second private garden I toured during the Garden Writers Association symposium in Pasadena, California, last month turned out to be my favorite. Owned by Ann and Olin Barrett, the garden’s formal layout with cross axes and focal points is made California friendly and contemporary with bold, xeric plants.

The largest portion of the garden contains a lap pool set in a (surprisingly green) lawn. The pool leads the eye to an arched grape arbor behind a lattice-style fence. Palms and other trees create a lush, green “borrowed view.”

Along the fence, a deep bed of bold, dry-loving plants like sotol, agave, and aloe make an eye-catching border that requires little water.

Sotol was in bloom.

A Dr. Seussian tree aloe (Aloe barberae) is underplanted with wine-colored aeoniums, if I’ve IDd them correctly.

Looking through the doorway of the lattice fence and the grape arbor, your eye is drawn to a lion’s-head tiered fountain.

The spacious, grape-shaded arbor shelters a table and chairs, and the fountain adds a welcome feeling of coolness.

White oleander offers visual cooling as well.

Handsome brick columns, which support the arbor, are wrapped in lathe painted to match the fence.

Turning around and looking across the length of the lap pool, you see a couple of chaise longues under a feathery tree, an open-air pool house, and a long, narrow pond aligned on a cross axis with the pool.

Here’s another view of the formal pond, as seen from the garden entrance. Planted with water lilies, canna, papyrus, and reeds, it runs perpendicular to, and crosses, the lap pool.

A stone sculpture anchors the far end of the pond. A mirrored “doorway” creates the illusion that the garden continues beyond the wall.

Square parterres with topiary shrubs add to the formal structure. Pale gravel floors this garden room.

The same view as seen from the paver-and-grass patio at the end of the lap pool. White brugmansia blossoms hang overhead.

The brugmansia nestles romantically alongside the open-air pool house. High arched doorways and comfortable seating create an inviting destination.

A comically drooping aloe jazzes up a classic scene of ivied brick and a spherical finial.

Nearby, a jade-green pot elevates a matching fan aloe (Kumara plicatilis).

A nearly secluded path leads around the house to another part of the garden, which feels like tropical Mexico thanks to banana trees and palms.

A collection of terracotta faces adorns the stucco wall.

Through the gate…

…a tiered lion’s-head fountain like the one under the grape arbor splashes softly.

Now you enter a small garden room whose focal point is a multi-level brick-and-tile spa framed by evergreen shrubs and a pergola of brick columns and wooden arches.

The rear windows of the house look out on this view. It all feels completely secluded.

A small lawn is formally shaped and edged with brick and a stained-concrete walk.

A collection of terracotta pots along the back steps display a variety of dry-loving plants.

A small glazed dinosaur with his hands in the air (like he don’t care?) was the only whimsical detail I noticed in the entire garden.

An elegant roofed terrace offers a beautiful place to lounge the day away. Surrounded by lush greenery and tropical plants, it reminds me of outdoor salas in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

Up next: The hedged garden rooms of the Volk Garden. For a look back at the tropical-flowery Conlon Garden, click here.

All material © 2006-2015 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.