The High Line park in NYC, a skyline promenade, part 2

At the end of Part 1 of my post about visiting the High Line in New York City last weekend, we’d just entered Chelsea Market Passage. After the dimness of the passageway, you exit into bright sunlight on the aptly named Sun Deck.

Wooden lounge chairs resembling stacked pallets are surely the most popular seats on the High Line.

If someone stands up, a passerby darts over to snag a seat.

Some of the chairs have wheels that roll along rails, allowing you to cozy up to your neighbor.

A water feature across the path puddles water on the paving edge. A bog garden makes use of the overflow.

Sparrows were enjoying baths here when we passed by.

Nice views of the Hudson River can be glimpsed from benches and lounge chairs on the Sun Deck.

Bistro tables offer additional places to relax and enjoy the view.

While peak fall color was still a week or two away, we saw some reds and yellows on the High Line, in addition to the golden grasses.

‘Sinonome’ toad lily was in full bloom…

…as were asters and persicaria.

In the early 1900s, grand ocean liners docked at Pier 54. Today it’s used for concerts and other public events.

Just south of 13th Street you pass under the Standard Hotel.

Once again, a dim passageway segues into an open, brilliantly lit plaza and the Washington Grasslands. Earlier in the year, when the grasses are still small, the Grasslands look like this — very different, with rail lines visible amid the plants.

Farther along, you can see rail lines even amid the lush growth of late-season.

I love how the plants seem to have sprung up on their own in the rail bed — all a carefully planned illusion.

Moving on, with mellow fall color showing on either side of the path.

Turning around for a look at the Standard, I remembered reading that occasionally hotel guests give peepshow views to park-strollers below. Our view was entirely G-rated, however.

At the southern end of the High Line, you enter the Gansevoort Woodland.

The silvery trunks of gray birches gleam as they appear to spring from the railroad tracks.

A metal sculpture rises from the tracks as well.

Now we’d reached the end of the High Line, so we got off and took the subway to the 9/11 Memorial, which I’ll share with you soon. Afterward, we made our way back to Gansevoort Street and scored an outdoor table at Bubby’s, a cafe my friend Rebecca Sweet had recommended and which is overlooked by the High Line. We enjoyed a delicious early dinner and stayed to people watch for a while before walking back up the High Line stairs.

Now the light was low in the west, and the grasses and fading perennials had a golden glow.

I noticed a perfect color echo between the Hudson River and these blue shutters.

Plank paving with “colonizing” Mexican feathergrass

Back at the Tenth Avenue Amphitheater, we saw that the traffic-watching crowd had grown. Everyone wanted to pose for a photo in front of the windows overlooking the street.

These two women “sat” against the window, which created an illusion of sitting in midair, and which must have provided an interesting rear view for pedestrians below.

We stood on the path above, leaning against the railing, and watched two artists drawing the same architectural scene.

The people-watching here was excellent, not only on the bleachers below but on the main path as people passed us. While my daughter watched the artists with rapt attention, I turned around and watched the throngs of people passing by. Young and old, fashionable and casual, tourists and locals, every nationality you might think of — as they passed I looked each person in the face, and they looked back. It was so different from the streets below, where everyone puts on blank stares as they rush by. It was a High Line connection.

Moving on, I admired this narrow planting bed with heuchera and sedge mulched with charcoal gravel.

A pretty combo

Surrounding buildings were bathed in afternoon light.

The Lawn was in shadow though.

A drummer had set up on one of the benches, and his rhythms made for a good walking beat, if you were in a hurry. We sat down to listen for a while.

By this time the streets were in shadow, with only the tops of buildings still glowing.

It was getting late, after a full day on the High Line and surrounding areas.

As the sun dipped toward the river we made our way along the rail path on the northern end.

Here we saw not just peel-up benches but peel-up tables too.

Children were playing in the Pershing Square Beams, where the underlying steel beams of the High Line have been exposed and coated in silicone for safety. Here, children are allowed to do all the things they want to do in other parts of the park but can’t, like climb and balance and jump and explore grassy planting beds up close.

An underground passage leads to a “gopher hole,” where kids can pop up to get a prairie dog’s view.

The northern end of the High Line is a curving arc with views open to the Hudson River and across a rail yard where commuter trains are stored between rush hours.

I neglected to take a picture of the rail yard, which is too bad because that industrial view will be long gone by the time I return to New York. The planned Hudson Yards redevelopment project will build a floating foundation over the trains and stack skyscrapers, parks, and a public plaza atop it. It’s a massive private development project that will transform the skyline, and the High Line will be right there alongside it.

For now, though, it’s a serene, less crowded part of the park. The gardens here are meant to look even more like the self-seeded wildscape amid the rails that people worked so hard to save.

What a loss had they not. And what a triumph of imaginative reuse the High Line turned out to be.

Up next: My visit to Wave Hill, a public estate garden in the Bronx overlooking the Hudson River and the Palisades. For a look back at Part 1 of my High Line visit, click here.

All material © 2006-2014 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.

Up on the High Line, a skyline promenade

Have you ever flown across the country to see one garden? I did last weekend. Rapturous articles and blog posts about the High Line, New York City’s garden-park conversion of an abandoned elevated rail line through the city’s old Meatpacking District, had seduced me for 5 years. One day last June, I suddenly resolved to go see it and invited my teenage daughter to join me on a girls’ garden-visiting, Broadway show-watching, big-city adventure. We flew to NYC last Friday, toured Wave Hill and New York Botanical Garden and saw an evening performance of the hilarious musical A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder on a cool, rainy Saturday, reserving sunny Sunday, our last day, for the High Line.

Wanting to get there early to beat the crowds, I set my alarm, yet managed to oversleep by an hour and a half. My daughter woke with what seemed like pink eye, necessitating a call to the pediatrician’s after-hours nurse for a prescription we couldn’t fill because nearby pharmacies were closed until 10 am (and out of stock when they did open). Undaunted, we rushed out without breakfast, took the subway from our Times Square hotel, gawked at caped and costumed Comic Con attendees streaming into the Javits Center, and entered the High Line on the northernmost end by the Rail Yards (the park’s newest section) around 10 am.

It was a crisp fall morning, and the first sunshine in days was peeking through the condos and other high-rises that surround the park and cast long shadows except at midday.

This new section of the park incorporates portions of the original railroad tracks into the pathways.

Exposed rails entice balancing acts, but the middle is smooth enough for strollers and wheelchairs thanks to a composite material that resembles the loose gravel that used to fill the space between the ties.

Cool design elements like “peel-up benches” seem to rise up out of the aggregate planking strips that make up the paths.

Old rail switches remain here and there for children to play with.

A few facts: The High Line is only about one-and-a-half miles long, and it consists mainly of narrow planting beds on either side of a zigzagging, boardwalk-style path that runs its length. Essentially a green roof, planting pockets are shallow, only 18 to 36 inches, which manage to support an extensive number of species, from wildflowers and perennials to shrubs and trees.

But all these onlys and restrictive elements can’t convey the expansive experience of walking the High Line. Liberated from the street, you’re up there, three stories high amid the architecture of Manhattan that spans two centuries. There’s a certain peacefulness to it, but also an energy and a sense of companionability. You feel connected to the city and your fellow High Liners.

If you don’t know the story of the High Line, here’s a synopsis. After 40 years of rail deliveries, trucking put the rail line out of business; the High Line fell into disuse in the late 1970s. Lined with razor wire that couldn’t keep out vagrants, drug users, and adventurers, it grew overgrown with opportunistic “weeds” like Queen Anne’s lace, chives, and ailanthus trees. Many people considered it an eyesore, and the city was on the verge of tearing it down when Friends of the High Line was formed to save it. For publicity purposes, the group hired landscape photographer Joel Sternfeld to photograph the High Line in all its wild, lonely beauty, and his images galvanized the public and the city to preserve the space as a park.

An international design competition was held, and the winning team of landscape architect James Corner Field Operations, architects Diller Scofidio + Renfro, and planting designer Piet Oudolf proposed to remake the line into a promenade and garden that pays tribute to the original, self-seeded wildscape that New Yorkers fell in love with. The first section opened in 2009, the latest in September of this year.

Development around the wildly popular park has been explosive. Cranes and construction are evident all along the park’s length but especially at the grittier northern end.

The Chrysler Building (above) and Empire State Building are visible from the High Line for now, although expected development will surely transform skyline views during the next decade.

The genius of the High Line, as many enthused critics have pointed out, is that it puts the city on view rather than closing it off with screenings of plants or manmade structures. The High Line is not a retreat from city life, at least not in the traditional, encompassing Central Park fashion, but a viewing platform for it. For example, where a billboard over 26th Street once peddled goods to passersby below, today its empty frame invites viewing of the street from built-in benches.

Park-goers, of course, are likewise framed for viewing by pedestrians on the street. It’s a playful interaction between the park and the surrounding city.

Art is also an important part of the High Line experience. Temporary exhibits of murals, sculpture, and performance art are commissioned by Friends of the High Line, which employs a full-time curator. Muralists who paint nearby buildings and street artists also find ways to put their own stamp on the High Line experience.

This explosively colorful and beautiful mural comes into view at West 25th Street and 10th Avenue, stopping southbound park walkers in their tracks. Painted by Brazilian muralist Eduardo Kobra, it’s his reimagining of Alfred Eisenstaedt’s famous photo V-J Day in Times Square.

On a nearby bench, life was imitating art.

Dutch horticulturist Piet Oudolf’s grassy, American-meadow planting scheme is very much part of the park’s appeal too. You won’t see sweeping beds of colorful, pampered annuals here, nor Main Street-style hanging baskets. Instead, the gardens pay homage to the tough native and exotic plants — i.e., weeds — that grew here during the abandoned years.

Warm-season grasses, which don’t really get going until midsummer and bloom in fall, dominate large sections of the gardens and were aglow this sunny morning. Their touchable texture encourages you to run your hands along sweeps of prairie dropseed, sideoats grama, autumn moor grass, switchgrass, and little bluestem.

Alternating with open “grasslands” are sections of path enclosed by shrubbier plants.

The High Line gives you an up-close look at many interesting buildings along the way, and sometimes into the windows of residential apartments and studios.

This is 245 Tenth Avenue, one of the many new condominiums springing up along the High Line.

The original railings over streets, which create a fascinating shadow play, have been preserved.

A rectangular lawn overlooks 23rd Street along its length. A bit threadbare, it was closed for renovation during our visit.

Passing the open lawn you enter Chelsea Thicket, a densely planted, tunnel-like space that makes you feel as though you’re walking through a forest.

You emerge into another grassland and a small plaza whose openness is enhanced by contrast with the thicket.

Just ahead is a popular spot, Tenth Avenue Square, with peel-up benches arrayed under a bosque of maple trees.

Those peel-up benches make fun ramps for kids.

From the square you get a nice view of the Northern Spur Horticultural Preserve, a short, nonwalkable section that’s planted to evoke the wildscape that preceded the park.

Before the High Line was built to move the trains off the streets, Tenth Avenue was known as Death Avenue because of all the train-pedestrian accidents. Today the Tenth Avenue Amphitheater offers bleacher-style seating and a framed view of car and pedestrian traffic on the street below.

As hypnotic as a flickering fireplace, the Tenth Avenue view holds your attention, even on a sleepy Sunday morning. In the movie What Maisie Knew, a charming scene was filmed here, and I was excited to see it in person.

At this point, my daughter and I took the stairs down to Chelsea Market, an indoor retail and food market, for brunch. We came back up about an hour and a half later, sat on the bleachers for a while, and then continued our southbound High Line walk.

A yoga studio whose windows are level with the High Line had a class in session, and we stopped to watch for a few minutes.

Moving on, I noticed blush-pink hydrangea blossoms fading to green in the chilly fall weather.

Purple coneflower had gone to seed as well. Like all perennials on the High Line, they’ll be left standing through winter to provide food and cover for birds and other wildlife plus interesting views for visitors. In late winter everything is cut back to allow spring bulbs their shining moment and make room for new growth.

The design of paving strips with plants growing between them is one of the splendid design elements of the High Line, evoking the way plants colonize manmade structures over time. Unfortunately, their raised edges, which blend so well into the walkable paving, are a tripping hazard. You can see that low cable barriers have been installed, probably in an attempt to keep people out of the plants as well as to prevent tripping. But the irregular design that looks so great makes it difficult to rope off all the raised edges, and I stumbled over them a few times myself. The cables also detract unfortunately from the clean design of the paving. It’s too bad that the planted strips weren’t made level with the paths, but too late now.

Continuing south we entered Chelsea Market Passage, where trains once loaded and unloaded goods in the old Nabisco building. Today it’s a covered plaza with colorful bistro seating and art, food, and souvenir vendors.

The stained-glass windows in the Passage are an artwork by Spencer Finch called The River That Flows Both Ways, referring to the tidal movements of the Hudson River. Finch spent a day on the Hudson photographing the river once a minute. One pixel of color from each image was arranged chronologically on the windows to represent the passage of time and the elusive color of water. The actual colors at top are much bluer than my camera captured.

This is a little better.

And there’s the Hudson itself, one of many views you can enjoy from various points along the High Line.

Coming up: Part 2 of my visit to the High Line, continuing south to the steps at Gansevoort Street and our return northbound stroll later that afternoon.

All material © 2006-2014 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.

Nonirrigated native plant garden of Lee Clippard is a foliage lover’s dream

Earlier this month I visited the East Austin garden of Lee Clippard, blogger at The Grackle, and his partner, John. The first fall rains had just arrived, following a relatively mild summer, so their foliage-centric garden of native plants was looking lush and green. I’d never have guessed, if Lee hadn’t told me, that he didn’t once irrigate his garden all summer, aside from a one-time spot watering of a wilting American beautyberry just off the front porch.

Smart plant choices make the no-water garden possible, although of course even these drought-tolerant natives must have water to get established. Once established though, the plants are on their own. Lee chucks the ones that don’t thrive and adds more of those that do.

You might recognize Lee’s garden from my book, Lawn Gone!; I profiled his garden in an early chapter. Lee screened the front garden with shade-tolerant foliage plants like palms, loquat, and Turk’s cap to give privacy and a sense of enclosure to a small gravel patio and to create green views from their windows.

Streetside, all that textural foliage makes for a secret-garden effect. What’s on the other side?

Entering the front garden you see a rectangular gravel patio edged with chopped limestone. A patio set used to sit here, but now there’s just a simple, wooden bench, very Zen.

A triangular stone sculpture sits in a soft patch of Texas sedge (Carex texensis) along one corner of the patio, framed by loquat and paleleaf yucca (Yucca pallida).

It’s a serene, inviting space framed by sedge and yuccas, with leafy shrubs along the perimeter screening the street from view. The stone path at right makes a friendly path for the mailman to cut through from the neighbor’s yard.

Lee gardens with a goal of attracting wildlife, with flowering prairie plants like coneflower where he has more sun along the driveway, and plenty of roosting and nesting places for birds, insects, and other beneficial wildlife.

He lets plants stand after they go to seed in order to provide food for birds. A large spineless prickly pear adds structure to this “wilder” section of the garden.

Around back, a wood-slat arbor and gate invite you into the back garden. Spanning the gap between house and detached garage, the arbor offers shade from the Death Star and enclosure for their dog. A lovely cut-stone path set in gravel draws the eye and foot into the space.

To the right, on the wall of the garage, a trough fountain with a small copper spout pours a thin stream of water that seems to cool the sizzle of a hot day.

Ahead, a grilling station is set up near the back door, which leads to the kitchen. Hanging from a corner of the eave, a rain chain directs rainwater, when it comes, to a bowl filled with colorful, egg-shaped river rocks.

Native horseherb (Calyptocarpus vialis), considered a weed by some, provides a low-maintenance, no-water groundcover.

I think Lee made these concrete bowls, which he uses as succulent planters and to hold pretty river rocks.

The stone path makes a right-angle turn behind the garage, leading to a gravel patio and, farther along, to an herb garden. Here at the corner, terracotta pots of cactus and succulents attract the eye…

…and soften the base of four cedar posts that support a “ceiling” of string lights around the gravel patio.

Lee and John inherited the mortared-brick Celtic knot with the house, but they enlarged the patio space around it to make more room for entertaining. It’s a beautiful focal point for their patio.

They made the 8-foot-long wooden bench themselves. It’s backed by a fringe of inland sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium).

Red, recycled-plastic Adirondacks add hot color.

The purple berries of American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) add plenty of rich color too.

Enjoy them while you can, before the mockingbirds find them!

The back of the garage is a place for Lee to showcase his potted-plant collection. He and John also use the wall (hung with a sheet, I assume) for showing outdoor movies with friends.

An insect hotel hangs from the corner of the house, part of Lee’s effort to attract bees and other beneficial bugs.

Behind the garage, Lee and John made a small, raised-bed herb garden. Anchoring the space is a signpost pointing to places that have special meaning to them. Wooden chaise lounges offer a place to catch a little sun, and a wooden-slat screen hides a view of the neighbor’s yard. In front of the screen, a tufted lawnette of Texas sedge (Carex texensis) makes an emerald groundcover.

We live in a big country, don’t we? A thousand miles, at least, whether you head for the East Coast or the West.

Pomegranates are ripening.

And lantana is blooming — more fall color that attracts butterflies.

And here’s another look at the Texas sedge lawnette.

I love that quilted look.

A metal grackle is a reminder that this is the home of The Grackle blog. If you haven’t ever read it, do. Lee’s posts are always thoughtful and beautifully photographed, with good information about wildlife and native-plant gardening and Tex-Zen design.

My thanks to Lee and John for sharing their inspiring waterwise garden with me again. Readers, if this has whetted your appetite for more, click for my spring 2012 visit to Lee’s garden. Also, see Lee and John discuss the design of their garden on Central Texas Gardener.

This is my October post for Foliage Follow-Up. I’d love to know what lovely leaves are making you happy in your October garden (or one you’ve visited). Please join me for Foliage Follow-Up, giving foliage plants their due on the day after Bloom Day. Leave your link to your Foliage Follow-Up post in a comment. I really appreciate it if you’ll also include a link to this post in your own post (sharing link love!). If you can’t post so soon after Bloom Day, no worries. Just leave your link when you get to it.

All material © 2006-2014 by Pam Penick for Digging. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited.